YOUR PUPPY'S FIRST ROUND OF VACCINATIONS - WEEK 7-8
THESE SHOULD BE GIVEN BY THE SELLER BEFORE YOU PICK UP YOUR PUPPY.
One the most imperative and confusing responsibilities in caring for your puppy is making sure he gets the right vaccines at the right time. There is controversy nowadays about whether or not adult dogs need every vaccine every year (except for Rabies which is required). But with puppies, getting their rounds of vaccines is crucial.
For instance, if a puppy catches Parvo, he has less than a 20% chance of recovery. So, put your pup's vaccine dates on your schedule and send yourself reminders.
This tip has a list of necessary vaccines for the first round and further tips will cover the next two rounds. Vets and local laws differ a bit about exactly what to give when so use these tips as guidelines and follow your vet's advice. The vaccines to give at this age are 1. Distemper 2. Parvo 3. Corona and 4. Bordatella.
There are rarely side effects to vaccines but there are a few serious ones that you should look out for:
It is important to keep your puppy from any situation with multiple dogs or unknown dogs until he's had his third round of boosters. At the least, keep him away from other canines for five days after his vaccines, as it takes that long for them to start working. Ignoring this rule could expose your puppy to something like the aforementioned Parvo and have deadly consequences.
While it's tough to make all those vet appointments with a new puppy, just think of it as insurance against illness and assurance of a healthy puppy.
YOUR PUPPY'S SECOND ROUND OF VACCINATIONS - WEEK 12
It may seem like yesterday when you took your pup in for his first round of vaccines but it's time again to make a trip to the vet. The second round of vaccines is as important as the first. Your puppy needs the full three rounds to ensure he is safe against illnesses such as Distemper, which is often fatal. If your puppy does get Distemper, excellent vet care is essential and signs of neurological control such as seizures are hopeful indications of a recovery. But better to get to the vet now than take a chance.
In the second round of vaccines, your pup is less likely to develop serious side effects. However, be on the lookout for lesser side effects such as:
Call your vet if any of these last more than 24 hours. The vaccines your puppy should be getting are:
Always follow your vet's guidelines, as different localities have different schedules. And remember to keep your puppy away from other dogs for at least five days and preferably until after the third round of vaccines. This is a great time for puppies to socialize with new humans, however, in order to keep them open to new beings in their environment.
This is also the time to start worm checks and to start Heartworm prevention. You can help your vet by looking for worms in your puppy's stool. Do not start Heartworm prevention without talking to your vet. It is important that a Heartworm test be done first and that the correct dose is given to your pup. You're well on your way to having a healthy puppy!
YOUR PUPPIES THIRD ROUND OF VACCINATIONS - WEEK 16
Opinions vary on when this vaccine should be administered, please check with your veterinarian. Personally, I would give it separately after the last round of puppy vaccinations.
What is the difference?
A dog's normal temperature is 99.5 - 102.2 F
A dogs pulse is 60-120 beats a minute
Respiration - 14-22 breaths per minute
By Mary Meador
Signs, you'll want to put up lots of signs in your surrounding area. Divide sheets of poster board into four
sections. Keep your message brief (Lost Golden Retriever male/female, light gold, etc.). Write in large block
letters so the sign will be easy to read and add the word "REWARD" and a number where you can be reached. Slip the signs into large Zip Loc baggies (2 gal) so they will be weather proof. When you are placing the signs, remember they they will most likely be read from a passing car so put them at eye level from that perspective.
Recruit some friends to walk the neighborhood (remember that someone needs to be home to answer the phone) and ask if the dog has been seen. Kids are great because they are most likely to be on foot and probably know the good hiding places. Talk to as many as you can, describe your dog and tell them about the reward (the amount doesn't have to be large) and give them your number.
f your dog hasn't strayed too far, the above will probably reunite you with your wandering companion. If, by the
second day, he/she is still missing you'll want to launch a second "attack."
Place and ad in the newspaper describing the vicinity where the dog was lost, give a brief description and a phone number. Also be sure and check the lost and found to see if your pet has been picked up by someone.
Use a good picture of your dog (if you don't have one, be sure to take one and put it in a place where you can
easily find it) and have some reward posters printed. Take the handouts to local shopping centers and post them
(with the merchants approval) in shop windows. Try and place some of them by cash registers so that people can get one when they are checking out.
Alert area vets and rescue groups about your missing pet. Also check to see if there are organizations that
specialize in reuniting lost pets with owners. Walk the area animal shelters. Physically checking the shelters is much better than simply calling because shelter workers are often overworked and may not realize your dog is there or they may be unfamiliar with your breed.
What happens when - how your puppy changes and develops
Food that most dogs can eat:
Some “human” foods are good for dogs. Most of these are healthier than the boxed treats you buy in the grocery store. . This is just a small list of examples of foods dogs can eat, not a list of every food they should eat. Dogs won’t necessarily get all the nutrients they need if they eat these foods exclusively, so check with your veterinarian if you are interested in feeding your dog a home cooked diet.
Any food that causes stomach upsets or digestive problems in your dogs should be avoided. Like people, some dogs cannot tolerate certain foods
Meats should be boneless and it’s best if the skin is removed. Some people like a RAW diet. Some people rather cook. If you cook meat do not over cook. Keep it ‘rare’ so you don’t kill the enzymes. ESPECIALLY FOR SICK animals. However all Fish and Pork must be well cooked. Also note – totally Raw and cooked diets should never be mixed at the same meal as they digest differently.
Skinless, boneless chicken breast
Skinless, boneless turkey breast
Fish: do not feed TUNA as high mercury content – be careful of small bones.
Vegetables most are GREAT for your dog and they should have them!
Dogs have shorter digestive tracts than humans and cannot digest most vegetables whole or in large chunks. It’s best to put them through a food processor before giving them to your dog- best veggies for your dog are:
Carrots (for healthy dogs) (not for cancer dogs though as high in sugar)
Grains should not be given in large amounts or make up a large part of a dog’s diet, but these foods are generally safe in small amounts
Bread (not white breads or anything sugar or that converts to sugar) remember the simple rule feed no WHITE colored foods!
Use caution with dairy products as they are high in fat and can cause pancreatitis, gas and diarrhea. Usually, nonfat plain yogurt is safe in small amounts as is cottage cheese in small amounts.
Over exercising your puppy (Author unknown)
A Boxer Puppy's skeleton isn't completely mature until at least 18 months of age. The bones' growth plates fuse sometimes in the tenth month, but then the bones undergo a lot of remodeling-the structure changes as the bones adapt to the stresses put on them.
While the bones are growing, it is not safe to over exercise your puppy. It is important that you bring your puppy outside at an early age to get him/her used to all the smells and sounds. But it is also important not to do any permanent damage to the puppy's growing skeleton. When you damage the skeleton, joint problems may result. Such problems are painful and may result in lameness.
Growing puppies need to get plenty of rest, the right food, lots of love and gentle exercise. Playing in the yard and a gentle walk to the end of the street and back is more than enough exercise for a young puppy. Remember to stop all activities and let your puppy rest as soon as he/she shows signs of tiring. Young bones and joints can be damaged by overly strenuous exercise, with problems sometimes only becoming apparent as the dog matures.
To understand why we say this, we need to have a very quick look at bone/joint growth and development in puppies.
.Puppies bones aren't fully formed and hardened until at least 18 months old.
.Until the bones have fully formed - the hip, elbow, and limb joints will not fully set.
.Until the setting takes place any over exercise of these joints will result in a loose and irregular and final fit.
.Even though both parents may have excellent hip scores, it’s still very possible for a puppy to develop hip dysplasia - caused by over exercise.
.There's no real cure for dysplasia and at best it will result in early arthritis which is an irreversible condition and is very painful.
Bones should eventually become tough and strong structures able to support the weight and normal functioning of the animal they belong to, but they are not that way while they are growing! During growth, bones/joints are relatively soft, fragile and highly vulnerable to physical trauma. Excessive exercise or any stresses that are too great for a young puppy will cause the bones/joints to become misshapen, deformed and painful. The trauma that bones/joints can experience from excessive "simple walking" can result in minute fractures in the cartilage, blood loss to the joint and the growth plate. This produces a wide range of orthopedic diseases including dysplasia, osteochodritis and DJD.
What amount of exercise is safe:
There aren't any scientific studies to determine where exactly to draw the line between a good amount of exercise and over exercise. One jump or a single 40 minute hike for a 10 month old is probably reasonably safe and may be impossible to avoid. But the more consistently you go beyond the guidelines, the greater the chances of injury. We suggest the following guidelines for exercise until your Boxer reaches 18 months of age. These are only guidelines for healthy puppies - as always be aware of the risks and use your own judgment.
To determine how much your puppy is allowed to walk on a leash, multiply his age in months by five. The resulting number is how many minutes per day your puppy can do walks on a leash and this works for puppies from 3 to 12 months old.
An 8 week old puppy is not allowed any leash walks.
A 3 month old puppy will be allowed 15 minutes a day, and a 10 month old - 50 minutes.
A 12 - 18 month old Boxer should be allowed a maximum of one hour leash walking/per day.
Don't walk your puppy for more than the recommended number of minutes a day. What you’re trying to minimize is the stress of repeatedly jarring the joints.
At 3 months, start daily walks on a "non-extending" lead and on a good firm surface such as the ground, grass, sand road, but not asphalt, concrete, or ice, for 15 minutes a day, gradually building up the time of the exercise to, at 6 months about 30 minutes per day. This provides an opportunity to introduce your dog to the outside world of traffic, people and the general noises of everyday life. If walking in the park, drive or carry your puppy to and from the park.
It is not a good idea to ride your bicycle or roller blades and expect your puppy to follow alongside until at least 18 months old!
Providing your puppy with a raw meaty non-splitting bone (no Rawhides Please) to chew on several times a week is an essential part of developing puppy's bones and muscles to be strong and his joints to be tight. Eating exercise provides isometric exercise for every muscle in the body and stresses the bones/joints in a very healthy way.
Playing tug-of-war is a wonderful way to exercise your Boxer puppy as long as he/she does not become tired. You should always stop when your puppy is still asking for more. For future Schutzhund dogs, make sure your puppy wins every time. For puppies that are family pets, make the puppy sit and release the tug on command when done playing - you should win every time. Exchanging the tug for a treat is a good way to accomplish this.
Fetching is OK, within reason. For example, you wouldn't want to throw an object over 20 meters, 10 times in a row for your puppy to retrieve. We know a lot of Boxers have fun chasing balls. It is ok to play ball with a couple of rules.
Don't make it the only or the major exercise your dog has.
Always play carefully and on a safe surface - soft grass without holes or dips.
Be careful of heatstroke, even in winter.
For a puppy less than 6 months old roll the ball on the ground instead of throwing.
From 6 months on throw the ball as far as you can, so there is more running and less scrambling over the ball.
Use a frisbee only with caution and throw them low. It is best to avoid frisbees altogether until 12 months old.
Time guidelines: No fetching before 3 months old, between 3 to 12 months old multiply the age of the puppy in months by two, the resulting number is the number of minutes your puppy is allowed to play fetch per day over several sessions.
Playing with other puppies
Wrestling and play-fighting with other puppies of similar age and size is very beneficial and can be safely allowed.
A puppy under 8 months old should not ever be allowed to jump beyond his carpus height. From 8 months old a puppy is allowed to jump up to his elbow height. Jumping and twisting games must be avoided altogether until 18 months old.
This is an excellent exercise for your puppy and he/she can be allowed to do as much free running as he/she wants providing there are no older dogs, children or adults that persuade the puppy to keep up with them!
Swimming is excellent exercise- just be careful about how the puppy gets in and out of the water. Steep, muddy banks are definitely not good. On a sunny day and if the water is warm, you can allow your 6 month old or older puppy to stay in the water for as much as he/she wants. Do not have him retrieve a toy from the water by repeatedly throwing it in. Never allow your dog to remain cold, wet, or tired after a swim or even walk in the rain. Towel dry the best you can.
It is definitely a good and safe exercise to teach your puppy to track. Start with simple "find the treat" games and do not progress onto long difficult tracks until at least 12 months old. For working prospects, follow the advice of your trainer, but do not do tracks that are too long.
Additional important notes:
No Forced exercise before 6months of age! Right after 6 months, most of the puppy’s exercise would need to be strength exercises.
Leave any type of endurance exercise for until after 18 months old.
Don't let an adult dog or human set the pace for a puppy! You don't want to force your puppy to keep up to you or his older buddy beyond the point of what hurts him. Since boxers are so eager to please their human master and just loves other canine members of their family, the puppy will try his best to keep up, even if running makes him sore. Never allow your puppy uncontrolled free running with an older dog! By all means let them meet and play for 5-10 minutes, but keep the puppy within the pen or a small confined area in the yard under your ever watchful eye. Please do your best to explain to your children that they should not be engaging the puppy in chasing or fetching games and do be around a lot to make sure they follow your request.
IF possible don't allow your puppy to jump up or down from the back of the car! Put on his/her leash and then lift him out.
No Stairs! Obviously, most puppies must get used to going up and down stairs. But don't have extended play periods where your puppy is chasing people, cat or another dog up and down stairs. Avoid stairs- there's nothing worse for a puppy’s hips/elbows than allowing it to run up and down. If you want the young pup upstairs, carry it up. Do not ever let him climb up no matter how cute he might look when doing it.
Listen to your puppy! When out exercising. if your puppy stops and sits down, you have certainly overdone the exercise, and the puppy will need to be carried home. Your goal should be to get your puppy some exercise with him still ending bouncy and full of himself, not tired and dragging.
No exercise after eating! Never allow your puppy to have vigorous exercise just before or after a meal - it could be fatal for your dog!
Sondylosis warning! Many agility instructors suggest that you don't teach a puppy to weave poles until 18 months, since the side to side motion puts stress on the back and spine. Additionally, avoid games where your puppy repeatedly twists his spine.
Let them be puppies! For those owners who plan on doing competitive sports with their Boxers - what is seen in dogs pushed too hard physically when they are too young is that it's really difficult to keep them motivated as they get older. Most of this is because they are not as sound as they would have been had they been brought along at a healthier pace, and some is from trying to instill a work ethic into a youngster who needs to be learning to enjoy life. There is a lot that goes on in a dog's body that they don't tell us about. Little aches and pains, and maybe the occasional sprain or strain, or the beginnings of arthritis developing, etc. You should be letting their bodies develop before training intensively or competing.
Dewclaws! If you are planning on doing any sports with your puppy ask your breeder not to have his/her dewclaws removed. The best evidence for leaving dewclaws intact is right there in every dog anatomy book. the dewclaw is attached to FIVE TENDONS. Tendons are attached to muscles or muscle bundles. SO that is five muscle bundles in the leg that will atrophy (shrink from not being used) once the dewclaw is cut. Additional evidence comes from the fact that working dogs will get grass and dirt stuck in the dewclaws, indicating that they are being used, and from photos showing the dog's foot on the ground and the dewclaw dug into the ground. The pressures on the dog's foot are the same, but if there is no dewclaw there to grip the ground, the pressures will go to the elbow, the other toes, the wrist, and the shoulder, possibly causing unsoundness and arthritis later on. Gratefully, most Boxer breeders in Europe recognize the important function of dewclaws and don't remove them.
The importance of being careful when administering exercise to your Boxer puppy cannot be overstressed enough, especially for that first year! The bones of your puppy must become a support and movement system which will serve him well for the rest of his life. Their initial fragility means that the only reliable and healthy forms of exercise a pup should have until his bones are mature are eating exercise, short walks, free running and play.
A puppy should never be allowed to become fat or to be exercised or walked or run until exhaustion. As the puppy gets older, he will be more able to cope with longer exercise periods. Hold him/her back, if necessary, and do not let his drives overcome your common sense.
Moderation is the key, and if you are careful with that young puppy, then at 18-24 months your dog should be healthy, fully developed, and, with proper training, will happily travel much further than you'd dream of and come back for more!
As for exercising your adult dog, there's an old saying "if your dog is overweight - you are not getting enough exercise!"
Toxic Indoor plants
Crown of Thorns
Jac in the Pulpit
Mother in law plant
Dog safety expert Melanie Monteiro demonstrates how to perform CPR on a dog.
HOW TO GIVE YOUR DOG CPR
Cardio-Pulmonary Resuscitation, or CPR,
as it is called, is a version of artificial
respiration that includes assisting the
HEART to BEAT. The purpose of CPR is to
keep oxygen moving to the lungs and blood
circulating throughout the body. The
directions contained here APPLY TO DOGS.
While these instructions may be good in an
emergency, it is wise to check with your VET
to establish the procedure that is best for your DOG.
How To Administer CPR
If your DOG is NOT breathing use a finger to
clear any mucus or other objects from the mouth.
TILT the head back to straighten the airway passage.
Hold the mouth shut with one hand, and place
your mouth over the DOG'S nose and mouth
making sure the seal is tight.
Blow into the nose while watching to see if
the chest expands.
If the chest DOES NOT EXPAND start over
again by clearing the mouth.
If the chest DOES EXPAND release your
DOG'S mouth so it can exhale.
Repeat the breathing procedure once every
five (5) seconds until your DOG is breathing
normally, or until your Vet or other Emergency
technician is available to begin treatment.
PUT your DOG on its right side. PUT the heel
of your hand on the ribcage just behind the elbow.
PUT your other hand on top of the first hand.
Firmly press on the ribcage in quick, smooth
movements. Depending on the size of your DOG
press down 3-4 inches using both hands. The
compression should last no longer than 1/2 second.
The smaller the DOG the fewer inches of
compression and less force are needed. At all
times try not to damage the ribcage.
Repeat this procedure a total of 10 times.
Then, if your DOG is not breathing,
perform CPR as described above.
Alternate between the chest compressions
(10 in a row), and one breath into the DOG'S nose.
GET YOUR DOG TO A VET!!!!!
YOUR PUPPY'S EARS MAY LOOK CUTE TO YOU NOW WHEN THEY ARE POPPING OR FLY-AWAY BUT AS YOUR BOXER GETS OLDER IT MAY TEND TO MAKE HIM OR HER LOOK A BIT GOOFY.
HERE IS A WEBSITE INSTRUCTING HOW TO TAPE THE NATURAL EAR WHEN IT STARTS TO POP OR FLY-AWAY, THIS USUALLY HAPPENS WHEN YOUR PUPPY IS STARTING TO LOSE HIS/HER BABY TEETH.
Here is another very good site (I think ears would stay taped better with this method): http://moosewood.tripod.com/tapingnaturalears.html
AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PAGE IS A PLACE TO CLICK ON THAT GIVES YOU INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO MASSAGE THE NATURAL EAR.
BABY GIRL HAS BEAUTIFUL NATURAL EARS.
MY FEMALE HEVEA HAS FLY-A-WAY EARS
WHEN HAVEA WAS A PUP I WAS NOT AWARE OF TAPING HER EARS, SHE HAD BEAUTIFUL NATURAL EARS AS A PUPPY BEFORE TEETHING (BELOW).
The age at which the dog is introduced to the fence is also important. Animal behaviorists state that puppies display a definite “fear stage” which will emerge during certain periods. It has been researched and documented that for most puppies, this occurs around the eighth week and again around the eighth month of their lives. When the puppy is introduced to the fencing area, the owner needs to be aware of the puppy’s fear and whether or not the dog is psychologically ready to experience the shock. If the puppy is in one of the fear stages, or is of a breed that is naturally timid, the fence can be more damaging than effective. This traumatic experience can deter the dog from going into the yard at all. When the electric collar is on the puppy, owners should be present to watch for adverse reactions and to step in with positive reinforcement when the dog stops before approaching the boundary.
A puppy should not be placed on the electronic fence before the age of four months of age! It does not matter the size, personality or temperament of the puppy. Some puppies should not be put on the electronic pet containment system until as late as five months of age or later.
All puppies go through a fear imprint stage from approximately six weeks to sixteen weeks of age. Any thing that could psychologically damage a puppy during this time can affect it for life. This has been thoroughly researched by dog behaviorists and professionals.
Do not take a chance with your puppy because some electronic fence company wants you to go ahead and commit to them. Most of our Dealers are true dog training professionals and can assist with determining your puppy’s personality and temperament.
You can read more about fear imprint stages of your puppy in relation to fencing by going to our Dog Training and Fencing Blog.
Note: Beginning in 2007, Contain-A-Pet has mandated all new Contain-A-Pet Dealers be certified dog training professionals. We are the only company that has endorsed using true pet professionals in this industry.
One of the most difficult parts of owning an electric dog fence is deciding when to introduce it to a younger dog. Young dogs can react unpredictably to electric dog fences, so understanding a puppy's development is essential to deciding when to start training the animal with the fence and collar.
Generally, puppies should not be introduced to electric dog fences until they're at least four or five months old. This will lower the chances that the electric dog fence will traumatize the animal - something that occurs due to the "fear" stages that all young puppies go through, not due to the static correction administered by an electric dog fence system.
Be sure to use an electric dog fence with adjustable settings when training a puppy. Use the lightest settings and spend plenty of time training the dog. Pay attention to any signs of fear that the dog exhibits; a fearful dog isn't learning properly, and you should immediately stop your training to avoid traumatizing the animal.
Every electric fence is approved for use with puppies and always carefully read the included instructions before you begin electric fence training. Focus on positive training and be patient with your new dog. If you can't seem to train the dog, all the manufactures have professional dog trainers on staff that can help you via their toll free number located in your product manual. Your electric dog fence can be a vital tool in establishing boundaries and keeping your puppy safe, but only if the right training methods are used from the start.
Puppies can be introduced to an electric dog fence from a fairly young age. K9 Electronics provides great tips for introducing young dogs to electric dog fences and selecting the right fence for your pet.
10 Reasons Not to Buy Pet Store Puppies